AN INTRODUCTORY GUIDE COURTESY OF
Copyright © 1996 by Wardell Publications Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Sections of this guide were extracted and condensed from Randy's book titled - "Quick Success Stained Glass - A Beginner's Instruction Guide" published by Wardell Publications Inc. and used by permission of the copyright owner. No part of this guide may be reproduced or redistributed for any reason or by any means including, but not limited to, digital printing, electronic downloading, photocopying, or otherwise without permission in writing from the copyright owner.
PREFACE
I have been involved in The Craft of Stained Glass for over 20 years and I still get excited every time I discover a stained glass installation that I have never seen before. There is something about the interplay of the vibrant colors, textures and designs which has a mesmerizing effect that pulls me in. You may have felt the magnetic draw of a stained glass object that you've seen, an ecclesiastical window at a place of worship, a tiffany style lampshade in an antique shop, a contemporary room divider at a restaurant, a jewelry box, terrarium or suncatcher in a gift store. If you have experienced the wonder of stained glass, then it may be time for you to find out how you can get started creating your own exciting projects in The Craft of Stained Glass.
One of the great things about stained glass crafting is just about anyone can do it. It only takes a few tools, a few hours of instruction and a little practice. Before you know it you will be producing your first stained glass piece. Unlike many other crafts, the excitement doesn't stop after a couple of introductory projects. As your craftsmanship and skill level increases, the possibilities and challenges continue to grow with you. Some crafters choose to specialize in windows, lampshades or gift items like boxes, planters, mirrors, suncatchers etc. Other crafters strive to become a "jack-of-all-trades" and take on all types of projects. No matter what level of involvement you choose, you will be proud to answer your friends questions by saying; "Yes, I did do that beautiful stained glass piece - thank you very much!" Return to Top
THE INFORMATION STATION
The Craft of Stained Glass is fun and easy, but you will need quality instruction and information in order to acquire the skills. I am pleased that you have found our web site, this is a great place to start your quest for quality information. This learning section in particular will give you an overview of the materials, tools, and basic steps that you can expect to encounter along the way, however it is not designed as a stand alone instruction course. For more complete and detailed instruction I recommend that you purchase a step-by-step instruction book. Two titles that come to mind are "Introduction to Stained Glass - A Teaching Manual" and "Quick Success Stained Glass - A Beginner's Instruction Guide" (I must confess that the reason they come to mind is because I wrote both of these books). In addition to a how-to book, there is no substitute for a face-to-face hands-on instruction class, available from any one of hundreds of stained glass stores worldwide - many of whom are listed elsewhere in this web site. [See Storefinder] These stores will also be your source for pattern books, magazines, instructional videos, tools, glass, supplies, and a great deal of creative inspiration. In addition to entry level instruction most stores offer advanced glass courses and speciality skills seminars. Your local stained glass shop has some of the most excited, friendly, and willing-to-share folks you will ever meet. Get to know these people and don't be afraid to ask them questions. They can guide you through almost any glass problem. They are a resource; use them! Return to Top
LET'S TALK ABOUT SAFETY
Almost every craft or activity has its share of possible hazards and The Craft of Stained Glass is no different. However with a little common sense and organization these hazards can be minimized. Everyone knows that broken glass edges are extremely sharp and dangerous. Stained glass crafting, by its very nature, produces many exposed glass edges and minor cuts do occur (This is not to scare you, only to demonstrate that caution is in order). It only stands to reason that if there are small children in your home you should make your glass work area inaccessible to them, including while you are working at your project. There will be slivers and shards of glass, a hot soldering iron, corrosive flux, and other chemicals, solder (which contains lead), assorted tools, knives, and a power grinder. You must take responsibility, not only for your own safety, but for all those who may enter your work studio. The most important advice I can give to prevent injury is in fact an old adage: "A Place for Everything and Everything in its Place!" In other words, get your space organized with shelves, racks, and containers. Use them as a matter of habit. Don't leave things, especially glass, lying around. Put the lid on chemicals immediately after use, always place the hot soldering iron in its holder and please, always. THINK ABOUT SAFETY! I will remind you to "Think about safety" throughout this section - only because being aware of the hazards and "thinking" of ways to avoid them is the best way to safely enjoy The Craft of Stained Glass.Return to Top
THE EXQUISITE GLASS
The luscious colors and dazzling textures of the glass itself is the reason many of us were drawn to stained glass in the first place. We are fortunate to have literally hundreds of glass types, styles, and surface textures to choose from. Manufacturers have developed unique varieties of glass textures and colors with their own special descriptive names, far too many to list here. However, to simplify the explanations, we can fit them all into three main categories. Cathedral Glass: This glass is transparent or semi-transparent, and available in single or multi color mixtures. A combination of two or more colors is called a streaky cathedral. Often this glass is given a surface texture, which can range from rain drops to fern patterns or it can have small bubbles or large swirls within the glass.
Opalescent Glass: This glass is easily identified by a milky or opal-like appearance. It is available in a wide range of styles, from a solid single color to as many as 5 or 6 colors swirled and streaked throughout the sheet. When an opal color is mixed with a transparent cathedral color on the rolling table, the resulting glass is called wispy or streaky opal.
Full or Sheet Antique: Produced in the time honored mouth blown method,
this glass features brilliant, transparent colors with a distinctive fire-polished
finish. Typically irregular sheet thickness result in dark and light areas
within a single sheet creating opportunities for shading and other subtle
design possibilities.
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TOOLS OF THE TRADE
There are a few special purpose tools that are necessary for The Craft of Stained Glass. Here is a basic list of tools and and other items that you will need to get started.
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Tools
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Materials
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DEFINITIONS AND DESCRIPTIONS:
The following is a brief description for some of the tools and materials
in the preceding lists.
TOOLS
Glass Cutter: Selecting your first glass cutter is an important decision. Experienced teachers know that the cutter you choose can often make the difference between quick success and total frustration. You must consider hand comfort as well as budget and anticipated frequency of use.
Self Lubricating with Tungsten-carbide Wheel: These cutters are by far the most popular among stained glass enthusiasts. They have a long lasting tungsten-carbide wheel with the added benefit of self lubrication (cutter lubricant is purchased separately). The higher initial cost of this cutter will be quickly offset by lower accidental glass breakage.
Traditional Cutter with Steel Wheel: These kinds of cutters are the least expensive and sometimes are referred to as "beginner" cutters due to the low cost. They are available in a variety of handle shapes made of metal, wood or plastic and must be lubricated prior to each score (cutter lubricant is purchased separately). While these cutters can produce a satisfactory score, they take considerably more practice to master than the self lubricating tungsten-carbide wheel models.
Glass Pliers Combination Breaker-grozer Pliers: As suggested by their name, these pliers were designed for a double duty and will quickly become the most versatile "must-have" tool you own. They have one curved jaw and one flat jaw which meet only at the tip. Their primary function is to grasp the glass securely on one side of a score when breaking it apart. Both jaws have serrated teeth to assist in their other duty, called grozing, which involves removing small bits of glass from an irregular edge.
Soldering Iron: Soldering is the act of melting an alloy (solder) to join metals, such as copper foil. To sustain the proper melting temperature required for stained glass soldering, you will need an iron between 80 and 150 watts. A wand or rod-style iron with a steel-clad chisel-point tip between 1/4" (6 mm) and 3/8" (10 mm) wide is the best choice for stained glass crafting..
Glass Grinder: Experienced glass crafters know that no matter how accomplished they become at glass scoring and breaking, some adjustment will be necessary for a precision fit of the glass pieces. A glass grinder makes this task seem almost effortless. These special machines are offered with models for occasional-duty to professional-duty. They feature a diamond embedded grinding head, which rotates in a reservoir of coolant. The coolant reduces chipping and helps eliminate harmful glass dust. The use of a grinder will instantly increase the quality of your work while reducing the frustration. Please "think about safety" & use safety glasses or goggles while grinding.
Workboard: You will need a work surface for glass cutting and project assembly. A piece of 1/2" (12mm) plywood 24" x 48" (.5m x 1m) or similar size will be sufficient for most projects.
Lathekin or Fid: This tool is used to burnish (flatten) the foil to the glass edges, among other uses.
Glass Pattern Shears: The special triple blade design of these scissors automatically removes a narrow strip of paper while cutting the pattern template pieces. By removing this narrow strip, an allowance is made for the foil and also provides a margin for error in glass cutting & fitting.
Glass Marking Pens: A medium point black ink marker is necessary to trace the pattern onto most glass, but darker glass will need a special white-paint marker.
Push Pins, Strips & Nails: You will need push pins, tape, small nails and wood strips to hold the glass while soldering. A prepackaged kit called the Morton Layout Block System contains the items you will need for most projects.
Drawing Equipment: Pencil, eraser, ruler 18" to 36" (.5m to 1m), drawing paper, pattern card, carbon paper, drawing square, and masking tape. Return to Top
MATERIALS
Copper Foil Tape: This is very thin sheet-copper with a sticky-tape back. It is wrapped around the outside edges of the glass pieces as a soldering base. Available on a 36 yard roll (33m), in widths from 1/8" (3mm) to 1/2" (13mm). The width of the foil used must be matched to the thickness of the glass being wrapped, to allow a minimum 1/32" (1mm) overhang that is folded down onto both the top and bottom glass surfaces. The three most common foil widths are 3/16" (5mm), 7/32" (5.5mm), and 1/4" (6.2mm). New crafters usually find a wider foil easier to work with.
Solder: Solder is an alloy (mixture) of metals. It melts at relatively low heat and readily fastens one metal to another. The common Tin/Lead alloys used in glass crafting are 60/40 (60% tin / 40% lead) and 50/50 (50% tin / 50% lead).
Flux & Applicator Brush: Flux is a chemical used to deoxidize and clean the copper foil tape. "think about safety" and exercise great care when using flux, as it is a corrosive chemical. Ask for (and read) the Manufacturer Safety Data Sheet (M.S.D.S.) available from your flux supplier.
Antique Patina: This chemical is applied to the metal seams of a completed project to change the color from silver (the color of solder) to antique brass, antique copper, or classic black, depending on the patina used.
Standard Clear Glass: This low cost standard window glass is unquestionably the easiest and most forgiving to cut, making it the best glass for practice scoring. Available in 3/32" (2mm) or 1/8" (3mm) thick.
Glass Cleaner: Use a commercial glass cleaner (without ammonia). Return to Top
LET'S JUST DO IT!
We'll get started momentarily but before we do, let's look at some glass handling safety tips. Always carry glass in a vertical position. Never pick it up or move it in a horizontal (flat) position. The correct way to pick up and carry a glass sheet is to grasp it with both hands by the top edge or, for a larger (heavier) sheet, pick it up with one hand on the top edge and the other hand supporting the weight on the bottom edge. Never run your hand along a glass edge. Always release your grip to move your hand to a new position. Just prior to moving a glass sheet, check it for cracks. First, check visually, then lift it slightly and tap the sheet with a finger tip and listen for a crisp ring. If you hear a dull clank, it has a crack. Do not attempt to move a cracked sheet! Get expert advice. To place a sheet safely on your work bench, carry it with one hand on the top edge and the other hand on the bottom edge and place the center of the sheet against the bench edge. Then roll or hinge the glass onto the table top, and slide it on fully. Return to Top
OK, HERE WE GO!
For practice in scoring and breaking, use standard clear glass as mentioned earlier. Try shorter length scores at first, as they are generally easier to break out. Continue practicing until you get the feel for scoring and breaking. Return to Top
SCORING THE GLASS
Hold the cutter in your favored (tool) hand and place the cutter wheel
on the glass about 1/8" (3mm) in from the edge closest to you. Now,
place the thumb of your other (guide) hand behind the cutter head to prevent
it from rolling back off the glass edge. Apply a firm, constant pressure
straight down onto the cutter with your tool hand and push it away from
you, all the way across the surface of the glass, with your guide hand.
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BREAK OUT THE SCORE
After having made your first score, it is time to run the score. The break starts at one end and should run (follow) along the score line to the other side.
Breaking with Hands only: Form both hands into fists and place the glass between your thumbs and index fingers with the score line between your thumbs. Your fingers should be clenched underneath the glass with knuckles touching. Hold the glass firmly at the end of the score. Apply a quick even "snap" pressure by pulling outward, and roll your knuckles by spreading your thumbs apart.
With Breaker-grozer Pliers: Form one hand into a fist, placing the glass between your thumb and index finger and close to the score line. Position the flat jaw of the breaker-grozer pliers on the top side of the glass with the jaw 90° to the score and as close to the end of the score as possible. Hold the glass firmly in your hand and apply a quick, even pressure by first pulling outward, then snap down with the pliers. Return to Top
YOUR FIRST PROJECT - THE COPPER FOIL METHOD
Pattern Making: After you are confident with your glass scoring and breaking skills, choose a novice skill level pattern for your first project. You will find thousands of stained glass designs available in books as full-size patterns, complete and ready to use (please refer to the Wardell Publications page elsewhere on this web site). However, you still need to create the actual glass cutting templates and the assembly drawing. This is done quite simply by tracing two copies of the original design. Use carbon paper to trace one on standard paper and one on heavier pattern card. After tracing, number each piece to keep track of your pattern pieces. The final step is to cut the pattern card into the actual templates for glass cutting. Do this using the special glass pattern shears to make an allowance between each pattern piece for the foil and solder.
Trace and Cut the Glass: Trace one of your pattern templates onto the selected glass with a marker, remembering to transfer the code number. Cut that glass piece out by scoring on the inside of the traced line, not down the middle. Periodically check the accuracy of your scoring by placing the pattern template back on top of the cut-out glass piece. Continue scoring and breaking until all pieces in your project are cut out.
Assembly Jig: If your project is square shaped build an assembly jig around the outside line of your working drawing; if your project is free-form use push pins. Arrange all your glass pieces on the drawing inside the jig. Some pieces will require grinding to make them fit properly.
Fitting and Shaping: Starting with a corner glass piece, compare its shape carefully with the lines on the working drawing. Mark all areas that are over the line with your marker, then take that piece to the grinder and selectively remove the extra glass. Place the piece back into the jig, position an adjacent piece, mark the areas which are oversize, grind and replace it. Position the next adjacent piece, mark, grind and so on until all pieces fit as accurately as possible.
Foil Wrapping: Before starting the foil wrapping process, each piece of glass (and your hands) must be clean. Pull a length of foil tape from the roll and peel back 2" (5cm) of the protective paper backing. Press the sticky end of the foil firmly onto the glass edge, leaving exactly the same amount of overhang on either side. Peel slightly more backing, move further along the piece and press the foil to the edge, peel more backing and press firmly as you continue around the glass perimeter. When you get back to the starting point, cut or tear the foil, leaving enough length to overlap the two ends at least 1/4" (6mm). Crimp (fold) the foil down over the glass edges with your thumb and index finger by pinching and pressing toward the center. Wrap and crimp all glass pieces in the project. Finally, burnish the foil tightly against the glass on both front and back sides using the rounded edge of your lathekin (fid) to ensure that the foil does not pull away from the glass. When all pieces have been foiled and burnished smooth, place them back into the assembly jig where they should be snug but not bulging. Do a final quality check and make any last minute adjustments.
Soldering: All foiled joints must be completely soldered (not just at the corners) to create the metal web which will hold the project together. Soldering begins by brushing flux on the foil seams. Now, with the hot soldering iron in one hand and solder in the other, place the iron tip directly on a foil seam and touch the solder to the top surface of the iron tip. The solder will immediately melt and coat the foil under the iron tip. Move the iron slowly along the seam, continuously adding more solder, filling gaps and covering the foil as you go. The idea is to build up solder on the seams until it forms a rounded bead. When you have finished one side, remove the assembly jig, turn the project over and completely solder the back side. All exposed foil must be coated with solder, including the outer edge.
Hanging loops: If you plan to hang your project in a window you should solder wire hanging loops (16-18 gauge un-insulated copper wire) to the top edge. Be sure to attach them at a solder seam only, a foil-only edge will not be strong enough to hold the weight over a long period of time.
Cleaning & Antique Patina: Thoroughly clean your project with glass cleaner & a soft rag. If you plan to "antique" the solder seams, apply the patina solution with a cotton rag immediately after cleaning. Patina is a corrosive chemical, so please use caution, "think about safety", wear rubber gloves and carefully follow the safety instructions on the patina container and in the M.S.D.S. Return to Top
POSTSCRIPT MESSAGE
The goal of this learning section was to get you interested in, and hopefully excited about, The Craft of Stained Glass. You now have an overview of the materials, tools, and basic steps that you would encounter in an introductory stained glass class. As I pointed out in the opening paragraphs, this overview was not designed as a stand alone instruction course, for an in-depth description of the process I encourage you to purchase a copy of "Introduction to Stained Glass - A Teaching Manual" or "Quick Success Stained Glass - A Beginner's Instruction Guide" both of these books were written for do-it-yourself learning and include numerous patterns for entry-level crafters. Or better yet, purchase the book at your local stained glass retail store and enquire about their introductory glass class schedule. Since you have read to the end of this web site's learning guide you are showing great promise and should not delay making that phone call to find out where you can sign up to get started at The Craft of Stained Glass. Return to Top
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