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This online version is provided courtesy of Inland Craft Products, Inc. You can view the complete manual and obtain a PDF version from the "How To" section on the Inland Craft website. |
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Soldering
Basics for Copper Foil - Continued
A big advantage of using copper foil is that not-so-perfect solder seams can be reworked. Allow the seam to cool, reflux it, then re-solder. Be careful because reworking a seam too many times (more than 2-3) can cause the adhesive on the foil to loosen and bubble. Solder one side of your project completely, then turn it over and repeat the process on the other side. Some of the flux from the first side you soldered will have seeped to the other side. You may encounter more "spitting," so use flux very sparingly. To achieve a smooth, beaded solder seam: practice! practice! | ||
Ending A bead |
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When you are ready to end your seam, pull off across the face of the glass making sure you are in a liquid section of the solder seam and do not lift straight up. This technique leaves a smooth exit point that is virtually unnoticeable. You may notice that this is the same photo used for removing extra solder. It’s not a mistake. The action is very much the same. | ||
Practice! |
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Creating perfect solder seams takes practice. One good way is to make a practice board. Make sure to include all types of intersections and lines (curvy and straight). Foil the piece and flat solder it on the front and back. Practice each different soldering technique. When you are finished, you can hold the piece vertical and melt the solder off. Now you are ready to start again. Many people use the practice board before they start soldering each project, just to get the feel of soldering again.
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| PAGE 12 | Continue | Solder Manual Index |
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To achieve a smooth solder line, solder the longest continuous seam possible. Don't start or stop a solder seam at an intersection with another seam. As you meet an intersection, allow the solder to break or "y" out over the intersecting seam about 1/2" and then return to the original path you were soldering in one continuous motion. As you continue to solder seams, you will connect these branches, thus preventing pulling out at intersections of seams (which is a noticeable sign of a beginner). When you encounter a "v" type joint. Solder in a direction that moves up into the "v" point, instead of coming down onto the point. This keeps a nice clean "v" joint without excess solder obscuring it. Do this by soldering up one leg of the "v" and as you approach the apex, drop your iron tip down flatter on the glass, so that it crosses over both seams. Then continue soldering into and out of the point of the "v."
Avoid a "painting" motion when soldering. Visualize your iron as a magnet pulling along a metal strip. Maintain a small puddle of solder at the base of the tip as you solder. When two adjacent pieces of glass vary in thickness, ride the tip on the higher piece of glass as you solder.