Pattern Preparation

Why use pattern shears?

Both copper foil and lead came take up space around your pieces of glass. If you don't compensate for this now, you're project will "grow" ending up larger than its original dimensions. This is especially troublesome if your making a piece that will be installed into an opening such as a window or door.

Framing and reinforcing so soon?

The best time to consider your framing and reinforcing options is during pattern preparation.

Framing varies slightly with each manufacturer. Choose your material and adjust the pattern before you cut it apart.

Pattern Preparation Tips

• When cutting curves, stay in the throat of the shears and use short, quick strokes to keep your pattern stock from jamming the shears.
• Rub the single blade of your pattern shears with a candle to keep the thin strips of paper from sticking in between the blades.
• Always use the same side of a ruler when measuring and drawing.
• Make extra copies of your pattern and use colored pencils to try out different color schemes before buying your glass.
• Photo copies can distort images. Check copies for accuracy before cutting.
• Patterns cut from transparency film let you see the details in the glass before cutting. They can also be held on the glass while grinding.
• Contact paper makes a great single use pattern that stands up to grinding.
• Drafting tape is handy for holding pattern pieces in place for placement and tracing onto your glass. It removes easily for pattern storage.
• From Gary Zoskey: I use Mylar as pattern material when cutting glass. I purchase it from a local blueprinting shop. After cutting out my pattern pieces, I ring the edge with gold permanent ink pen. As Mylar is transparent it highlights the edge. I then apply glue stick to the underside of the pattern. This is the same paste type glue children use in school. The glue is sticky enough to hold while cutting out your glass pieces. It also holds while grinding if you allow the glue to dry for about an hour. The good thing about using Mylar is that it is waterproof.

Back to Menu

Scoring Glass

When to replace your cutter head

A dull or damaged cutter head will turn any project into a nightmare. Occasionally clean out the space where the wheel turns with an old toothbrush. Tiny chips of glass can get wedged in the opening causing the cutter to scratch instead of score the glass. Once the wheel is turning freely, score a piece of mirror which makes the score line easier to see. A damaged wheel will leave a dot-dash pattern instead of a smooth, even line.

Scoring Safety

ALWAYS wear safety glasses when cutting glass.

Place glass completely on a flat, firm surface when scoring. NEVER leave glass hanging off the edge of a table.

NEVER hold a sheet of glass by its sides. Hold sheets from the top. If they slip out of your hand, you'll still have your fingers.

NEVER lift a sheet above you "see what it looks like."

Keep glass safely stored away when not working.

How to get a good score

There are several preliminary steps to making a good score. use a good, sharp cutter. A dull or damaged wheel will not score properly. make sure you lubricate the wheel so it rolls freely. Clean the glass of debris and surface film. Always score on the smoothest side of the glass

To score:
Start at an edge placing the cutter perpendicular to the glass. Apply consistent, light to medium pressure while pushing the cutter across the glass. A good score appears as a continuous scratch on the surface. A furrow of slivers indicates too much pressure. Break each score as you make it

To see if you over-score (use too much pressure):
Make a series of scores on a piece of scrap glass about 1/2" apart, applying less pressure each time. When you think you haven't pushed hard enough, make 5 more scores using less pressure each time. Use your running pliers to break out the scores in the same order that you made them. Discard any pieces that didn't follow the score and any that wouldn't break. (If they all followed the score, do some more and lighten up!) Look at the edge of the pieces. A good score has a smooth cut edge. An over-scored piece has a rough edge with pits. Practice until you consistently get a clean edged break.

How to use a Strip/Circle Cutter

To cut strips:
Nail a 1" x 2" wood strip to your work surface. Insert the measuring bar through the strip cutter base, adjust the wheel turret for size and tighten in place. Dab the cutting wheel in cutting oil. Put the glass edge against the wood strip. Use one hand to apply downward pressure to the cutting wheel and the other to guide the strip base along the wood edge as you pull the cutter across the glass.

To cut circles:
Insert the measuring bar into the tripod base and adjust the wheel turret for circle size, remember that this is the radius of the circle! Dab the cutting wheel in cutting oil. Hold the base in the center of the glass using firm, downward pressure with your left hand. Position the turret at about "7 o'clock" and hold with your right hand. At this point your right hand will be crossed over your left. Apply downward pressure and push the turret clockwise around the circle until you come to the point where you started.

To break out the circle, turn the glass upside down on a firm, flat and slightly padded surface like a section of newspaper. Use your thumb and gentle pressure to start the score and then run it around the circle, always pushing at the point where the score stopped running. Turn the glass back over and using your glass cutter, make several scores starting at the edge of the circle and going outward to the glass edge in a pinwheel fashion. Make sure that your scores don't cross into the circle. Use running pliers to break out these scores and release the circle.

Glass Scoring Tips

• Always use your cutter with the head screw facing up or forward for the best cutting angle.
• Before starting a score, position the glass so that you can comfortable complete the whole score.
• Always score glass on the smoothest side. This is not always the 'front' of the glass. Highly textured glass, like ripple or granite, is scored on the back side. (Don't forget to turn your pattern piece over!)
• If you get stuck in a bump or pit, gently ease your cutter out and continue scoring.
• At the end of a score, lift your cutter up instead of rolling it off the glass. This prevents damage to the cutter head and the glass.
• It is easier to follow your pattern line by pushing your cutter instead of pulling it. When scoring along a ruler or bar, it is easier to ride the cutter head along the edge if you pull instead of push.
• Over-tightening the oil cap on your cutter can crack the barrel of your cutter.
• Use a bench brush to keep your work area free of small slivers and cutting debris that can scratch your glass or yourself.
• Make sure one wheel of your strip cutter is centered to the bottom on the turret head. A spot of red nail polish on each used wheel tells you when it's time to replace the entire turret.

Back to Menu

Breaking Glass

Each type of pliers has a different purpose and is used in different situations. Using the right pliers for the job will make your stained glass experience easier and more fun!

Breaker/Grozier Pliers are dual purpose pliers with a flat jaw and a curved jaw. Both jaws are serrated for removing flares and tiny points of glass

To break out a score, hold the glass firmly near the score line with the pliers, flat jaw up. Use your right hand to hold the other half of the glass near the score line opposite the pliers jaws. Use a downward, rotating motion to break the score.

To groze, hold the piers curved side up and use a rolling motion to gently scrape the glass edge against the serrated teeth. Use the tips in a chewing motion to remove small sections of glass or nibble out deep inside curves.

Breaking Pliers have a smooth, flat jaw used for breaking long, thin pieces of glass. They allow you to reach into a piece of glass and hold it firmly at the score line without chipping the edge of the glass.

To use, firmly hold the glass close to one side of the score line with the pliers and close to the opposite side of the score line with your other hand. use a downward, rotating motion with your hands to separate the pieces of glass. If you don't get a nice clean break of the glass is chipping and shattering, you may be squeezing the pliers too hard.

Running Pliers let you break difficult scores with ease. The curved jaw applies equal pressure to both sides of the score line causing the score to 'run'. There is an adjustment screw on some types for adjusting to the glass thickness and amount of force needed to run the score. more pressure runs a score more quickly, less pressure more slowly. Curves are easily broken out by running the score slowly from one end to about half way and then from the other end until the scores meet.

To use, place the jaws (with the center indicator line facing up) squarely onto the glass with the score line centered in the jaws. Turn the adjustment screw until it just touches the bottom handle, then back if off 1/2 a turn. Squeeze the handles gently until the score runs. You must have the jaws fully on the glass for the pliers to work properly.

Breaking Tips

• Always wear proper eye protection when breaking glass.
• Prevent tools from rusting by storing them away from any corrosive chemicals. Wash and dry your tools if they come in contact with flux or patina.
• Holding and bending is the correct action when using breaking or breaker/grozier pliers. Squeezing too hard causes the glass to chip and shatter.
• Instead of holding the glass in your hand when using breaking pliers, try holding the glass flat on the table with the score line just off the edge. use your breaking pliers to grasp the piece hanging over the edge and bend the glass down to separate the score. This is most useful for straight cuts.
• You have more control over how your glass breaks when you squeeze gently with your pliers. Apply pressure in small, increasing amounts until the score runs or breaks.
• From Dan Nolan: I have found that on tough inside cuts, after you run the glass it is sometimes helpful to turn the runners over and repeat the process. This creates opposite pressure and helps the glass break away. Try it, it works for me. 

Back to Menu

Grinding

Which grinder is right for me?

Consider the following to help you decide which features are the most important to you, now and in the future. Consult with your stained glass retailer before you buy for additional information and advice.

Size - Grinder are made in two basic sizes, "large" with a 12" x 11" work surface and "midsize" with a 10" x 9" work surface. consider your bench space and the type of projects you'll be making. large pieces of glass are easier to work with on a large grinder.
Power - The more torque (measured in oz.-in. your grinder has, the faster and more efficiently it grinds. More powerful grinders operate larger diameter grinding heads more effectively.
Accessories/Bits - Additional work surfaces, face shields and upgrade kits are a few of the many useful grinder accessories. There are many different grits, sizes and types of grinding heads. Buy a machine that doesn't limit future choices and options.

Why is torque important in a grinder?

The most familiar method of rating a motor is horsepower, but horsepower doesn't necessarily tell you how well a grinder works and is only part of the motor rating equation.

Grinding Safety

ALWAYS wear safety glasses when grinding!.

A face shield is extra protection, but is not a substitute for safety glasses.

Always use your grinder in a properly grounded outlet. Never remove the grinding plug or try to override it.

Grinding Tips

• Always wear proper eye protection when grinding glass!
• Position the grinder at a comfortable height to work at. Elevating one foot on a foot stool can alleviate back strain during extended grinding sessions.
• Good over head lighting makes it easier to work and helps reduce eye strain.
• Use a backdrop or splash guard around your grinder to help contain over spray.
• Hang a towel below your grinder for drying pieces before putting them on your pattern
• Use a paint pen to mark pattern lines on glass. it's more likely to stay on while you grind.
• Lay glass flat on the work surface while grinding to prevent angled edges. (Unless you want them!)
• White build up around the grinding head means there is not enough water/coolant in the bit. Make sure the sponge contacts the bit and the water/coolant in the reservoir below. Keep your reservoir correctly filled and add more water/coolant if needed.
• If you are pushing so hard that the glass cuts your finders when grinding, ease up and check the bit for wear. It may be time to reposition it or replace it.
• Always secure the bit to the flat side of the motor shaft. To prevent your bit from seizing on the shaft, use a water insoluble lubricant like petroleum jelly, regularly when changing and replacing buts. Remove the bit when not using the grinder for extended periods.
• Clean the water reservoir out after every use. Glass dust is harmful to you and your grinder motor. Use a rubber spatula to scrape out the majority of your grinding residue.
• Remove hard water deposits from the grid and reservoir by cleaning with white vinegar or a lime removal product.
• Rinse plastic face shields clean under cool water after every use. Be careful not to scratch it by rubbing glass dust into the surface while cleaning.

"How many bits do I need?"

The best selection of bits for you depends on the type of work you do and your personal taste. Grinder heads (bits) come in a variety of sizes and shapes for different types of grinding or to create certain effects. Pick the ones that will most efficiently do the job at hand.

• Super Fine Grits: for mirror, very soft and delicate glasses where maintaining the smoothness of the edge is critical. Also use when the edge will be left exposed.
• Fine Grit: For soft and delicate glasses with very minimal chipping along the ground edge.
• Standard Grit: For normal grinding of most glass types.
• Speed Grits:For fast removal of material or grinding large surfaces where any chipping will be covered with foil or lead.
• Super Speed Grit: An aggressive grit for extremely fast removal and where the edge won't be seen or will be retouched with a finer bit.
• SuperBond®:" A special patented bonding process for extra long wear.
• DoubleDiamond®:Two layers of diamond bonded to the core that last more than twice as long as conventional grinder heads.

How to use specialty bits

Lamp Bits: A reversible bit with two different angles sides to grind lamp pieces that fit on a miter. Mitered edges meet better giving a thinner, more professional looking solder seam. Pick the angle that comes closest to the angle between the panels in your lamp. To figure the angle, take the number of panels and divide into 180.

Ripple Bits: Used to thin thick or textured glasses and make them easier to fit into the channels of lead and metal cames or to make pieces easier to foil. It tapers the glass edge by passing it through or under the groove in the bit.

Drilling Heads: Start by holding the glass at an angle to the top of the bit with a sponge held against the bit and the underside of the glass. As you grind, work the glass round the point of contact. It's important to keep the bit and glass wet. Frequently remove the bit from the hole to wet the hole and remove residue. Just before the bit comes through the glass, decrease grinding pressure to prevent chipping.

How to drill holes

1. It is best to drill under water. Use a cake pan or something similar. Place a piece of cardboard between the glass and the pan to protect the glass and the bit end when you drill through. When using a hand drill, start drilling at and angle to the glass.

2. Once the hole is started, bring the drill to vertical and drill through the glass. Make sure you keep the bit wet. If a white build up forms, add more water. Use less pressure as you come through the back of the glass.

For larger diameter drills, you will probably find it easier to use a drill press.

Bit Tips

• Always wear proper eye protection when grinding glass!
• Store bits in their original packaging to protect the diamond and identify the grit.
• Keep the set screws from worn bits for back up.
• Always secure the bit to the flat side of the motor shaft.
• When changing bits, lubricate the shaft with a petroleum based product to prevent seizing.
• Remove bits if you're not using the machine for long periods of time.
• Bits frozen onto the shaft can be removed by carefully using a plumbers faucet puller.
• To extend the life of your diamond bits, blades, core drills and discs, use a grinder coolant additive. A couple of capfuls added to the water in the reservoir reduces friction, speeds up the grinding action and adds up to 50% to the life of a grinder head.

Back to Menu

Using a Diamond Band Saw

Impossible cuts are possible with a band saw

No other cutting tool gives you the creative freedom of a band saw. You can cut any shape you can imagine.

Save money and frustration by making the cut on the first try. pattern pieces can be placed closer together creating less waste. you don't have to worry about getting that piece out of a one-of-a-kind sheet. you can cut multiple layers at once, making quick work of projects with repeating pattern pieces. There's no need to grind: The pieces have smooth edges that are ready to foil .

A band saw won't replace your cutter and grinder for every situation, but it makes a great addition to any workshop! Many saws available also work with wood and metal cutting blades which greatly enhance their versatility and use.

Sawing Tips

• Always wear proper eye protection when using your band saw!
• Don't push too hard when cutting with a band saw. let the diamond on the blade do the work as you guide the glass. If you are pushing like you do with a grinder, you are pushing too hard. You won't saw any faster and all you are doing is putting undue stress on the blade.
• It is important to keep your band saw clean. When ground glass dries, it gets very hard. Make sure that your band saw is flushed clean after each use.
• When uncoiling a new band saw blade, very careful not to twist or kink it. This can create a potential weak spot in the blade.
• If you are getting a white build up on your glass, you are not getting enough coolant to the blade. Check your reservoir level and flow rate. Too much coolant will cause excessive over spray.
• Use a paint pen to mark pattern lines on glass. it's more likely to stay on while you saw. You can also use a light coating of "chapstick" or similar material over the line to help it stay on the glass while you saw.
• Use light pressure and/or a lower speed when sawing tight curves and exiting your cut.
• Turn the saw off between cuts to help prolong blade life.

Back to Menu

Working with Copper Foil

"How do I choose the right foil for my project"

Most copper foil sold for stained glass use has an adhesive side protected by a peel-a-way backing and comes on a roll. When you foil your glass pieces, the backing is peeled away as you press the foil to the glass, centering it as you go. You want the foil to extend out over the edges of the glass equally. The foil is then pressed down over the edges, essentially wrapping the entire piece of glass. It is then pressed down or "burnished" to seal it against the glass. This process is repeated for every piece of glass in a copper foil project.

• Foil tapes come in wide range of sizes, or widths. Choose the width that will properly wrap the glass and give you the solder line width you want.
• Foil tapes come in different thicknesses:
  • 1 mil is very thin and works well for intricate cuts and tight inside curves because it easily bends and "stretches".
  • 1.5 mil is thicker and won't tear as easily. It works well for beginners, on unground edges and around sharp edges.
  • 1.25 mil is a middle weight foil suitable for most projects.
• Foil tapes also come with different colors on the adhesive side. If you are using glass that you can see through, choose a foil with the same color on the adhesive side as the patina you intend to use. This will help make foil disappear into the solder lines.
• There are also a variety of specialty tapes that make decorative effects or specific projects easier:
• Foil tapes with a patterned edge enhance add to the interest and appearance of a project and can create interesting solder lines.
• Double silver tapes have a silver coating on both sides. They are useful in projects where not all pieces or edges will be soldered and the solder seams will be left a silver color.
• Brass foil is useful for clear glasses where the solder seam will be plated or colored a brass or similar color.

Foiling Tips

• Burnish your foil down tightly, leaving no air bubbles. This will help prevent flux from seeping under the foil.
• If you have to put a project away when it's partially foiled, tape a small piece of foil to it so you use the same size later.
• Store opened copper foil in a zipper type bag to help prevent oxidation.
• To avoid splits in the foil when foiling deep inside curves, start and end the foil at the deepest part of the curve, overlapping slightly. Use your finger to gently stretch and roll the foil over the edges.
• You can use an old toothbrush to help burnish foil to textured glasses.
• On highly textured glass like ripple and herringbone, you may want to run the glass through an edge removing bit, like a RippleBit™, to make foiling easier.
• You can use an Exacto™ knife to trim unevenly foiled edges instead of re-foiling.
• Warm, clean and dry glass foils easily. Make sure to remove all grinding residue from your pieces before foiling.

Back to Menu