Useful Info

How To Use Stained Glass Tools

This "How To" contains information on using the tools needed in stained glass construction along with helpful tips and tricks. Just click on one of the sections below to learn more. And for more "How To" instruction visit your local stained glass retail store or studio for classes, supplies, and a wealth of information!

Pattern Preparation	Grinding & Sawing Glass	Working with Lead Came
Scoring Glass	Diamond Bits & Blades	Soldering
Breaking Glass	Working with Copper Foil	Cleaning & Finishing

Pattern Preparation

Some stained glass patterns come full sized and some need to be enlarged, but all will need a little preparation. Make three copies of your pattern and keep the original for future projects. Number the pattern pieces on all copies. Add glass color, streak direction, shading, and other helpful reference notes to help you with the cutting process. Cut one copy apart using the appropriate stained glass pattern shears. You will use one copy to assemble the project on. Keep the third copy hand for reference during cutting and assembly.

Q: Why use pattern shears?

Both copper foil and lead came take up space around your pieces of glass. If you don't compensate for this now, you're project will "grow" ending up larger than its original dimensions. This is especially troublesome if your making a piece that will be installed into an opening such as a window or door.

Pattern shears have three blades that automatically remove the right amount of the pattern to allow for the copper foil or lead came. This allows your glass pieces to fit together properly. Because the amount of space taken up by foil and lead differs, pattern shears are made in foil and lead versions. Make sure that you use the right one for your type of construction

Q: When should I consider framing and reinforcing option?

The best time to consider your framing and reinforcing options is during pattern preparation. Framing varies slightly with each manufacturer. Choose your material and adjust the pattern before you cut it apart.

This is also the time to plan for reinforcement. A general rule of thumb is to reinforce panels over three square feet. Mark you pattern for placement of reinforcing bars or strip to remind you of their location during cutting and construction.

Pattern Preparation Tips & Tricks:

When cutting curves, stay in the throat of the shears and use short, quick strokes to keep your pattern stock from jamming the shears.
Rub the single blade of your pattern shears with a candle to keep the thin strips of paper from sticking in between the blades.
Always use the same side of a ruler when measuring and drawing.
Make extra copies of your pattern and use colored pencils to try out different color schemes before buying your glass.
Photo copies can distort images. Check copies for accuracy before cutting.
Patterns cut from transparency film and mylar let you see the details in the glass before cutting. They can also be held on the glass while grinding using a glue stick or tape and are waterproof so your grinding line won't wash away.
Contact paper makes a great single use pattern that stands up to grinding.
Drafting tape is handy for holding pattern pieces in place for placement and tracing onto your glass. It removes easily for pattern storage. (return to index)

Scoring Glass

It's important to use a quality glass cutter that is comfortable to hold. Try out different handle styles to find the one that's right for you. Look for a cutter with a carbide steel cutting wheel and axle. These wheels hold their cutting edge longer and produce a cleaner score. Some cutters have an oil feed system. This not only keeps the cutter head lubricated and free rolling, it also deposits a thin line of oil along the score which makes it easier to break.

Scoring Safety

ALWAYS wear safety glasses or goggles when cutting glass.
Place glass completely on a flat, firm surface when scoring. NEVER leave glass hanging off the edge of a table.
NEVER hold a sheet of glass by its sides. Hold sheets from the top. If they slip out of your hand, you'll still have your fingers.
NEVER lift a sheet above you "see what it looks like."
Keep glass safely stored away when not working.

Q: How do I get a good score?

There are several preliminary steps to making a good score:

Use a good, sharp cutter. A dull or damaged wheel will not score properly.

Make sure you lubricate the wheel so it rolls freely.

Clean the glass of debris and surface film.

Always score on the smoothest side of the glass

To make a good score:

Start at an edge placing the cutter perpendicular to the glass.

Apply consistent, light to medium pressure while pushing the cutter across the glass to the opposite edge.

A good score appears as a continuous scratch on the surface. A furrow of slivers indicates too much pressure.

Break each score as you make it

To see if you over-score (use too much pressure):

Make a series of scores on a piece of scrap glass about 1/2" apart, applying less pressure each time. When you think you haven't pushed hard enough, make 5 more scores, again using less pressure each time.

Use your running pliers to break out the scores in the same order that you made them. Discard any pieces that didn't follow the score and any that wouldn't break. (If they all followed the score, start over and lighten up!) Look at the edge of the pieces. A good score has a smooth cut edge. An over-scored piece has a rough edge with pits.

Practice until you consistently get a clean edged break.

Q: How do I know when it is time to replace my cutter head?

A dull or damaged cutter head will turn any project into a nightmare. If you suddenly can't run a simple score and you've done the above, your wheel is probably dull and it's time to replace the head. First make sure the wheel is turning freely. Then score a piece of mirror which makes the score line easier to see. A damaged wheel will leave a dot-dash pattern instead of a smooth, even line.

Q: How do I use a Strip Cutter?

Strip cutters are generally make to ride a raised edge. Nail a 1" x 2" wood strip to your work surface. Insert the measuring bar through the strip cutter base, adjust the position of the wheel turret along the bar for the size strips you want to make and tighten in place. Dab the cutting wheel in cutting oil. But your glass piece up against the wood strip. Use one hand to apply downward pressure to the cutting wheel and the other to guide the strip base along the wood edge as you pull the cutter across the glass.

Q: How do I use a Circle Cutter?

Insert the measuring bar into the tripod base and adjust the wheel turret for circle size, remember that this is the radius of the circle! Dab the cutting wheel in cutting oil. Hold the base in the center of the glass using firm, downward pressure with your left hand. Position the turret at about "7 o'clock" and hold with your right hand. At this point your right hand will be crossed over your left. Apply downward pressure and push the turret clockwise around the circle until you come to the point where you started.

To break out the circle, turn the glass upside down on a firm, flat and slightly padded surface like a section of newspaper. Use your thumb and gentle pressure to start the score and then run it around the circle, always pushing from the point where the score stopped running. Turn the glass back over and using your glass cutter, make several scores starting at the edge of the circle and going outward to the glass edge in a pinwheel fashion. Make sure that your scores don't cross into the circle. Use running pliers to break out these scores and release the circle.

Scoring Tips & Tricks:

Always use your cutter with the head screw facing up or forward for the best cutting angle.
Before starting a score, position the glass so that you can comfortably complete the whole score without stopping.
Always score glass on the smoothest side. This is not always the 'front' of the glass. Highly textured glass, like ripple or granite, is scored on the back side. (Don't forget to turn your pattern piece over otherwise your pieces will be backward)
If you get stuck in a bump or pit, gently ease your cutter out and continue scoring.
At the end of a score, lift your cutter up instead of rolling it off the glass. This prevents damage to the cutter head and the glass.
It is usually easier to follow your pattern line by pushing your cutter instead of pulling it.
When scoring along a ruler or bar, it is usually easier to ride the cutter head along the edge if you pull instead of push.
Over-tightening the oil cap on your cutter can crack the barrel of your cutter.
Use a bench brush to keep your work area free of small slivers and cutting debris that can scratch your glass or yourself.
Occasionally clean out the space where the wheel turns with an old toothbrush. Tiny chips of glass can get wedged in the opening causing the cutter to scratch instead of score the glass.
Make sure one wheel of your strip cutter is centered to the bottom on the turret head. A spot of red nail polish on each used wheel tells you when it's time to replace the entire turret. (return to index)

Breaking Glass

Breaking glass is all about choosing the right type of pliers. Each type of pliers has a different purpose and is used in different situations. Using the right pliers for the job will make your stained glass experience easier and more fun!

Breaking Glass Safety

ALWAYS wear safety glasses or goggles when breaking glass.
Keeps small children and pets out of your work area.
Don't use your hand to brush away pieces and slivers.

Q: How and when do you use breaker / grozier pliers?

Breaker / Groziers are dual purpose pliers with a flat jaw and a curved jaw. Both jaws are serrated for removing flares and tiny points of glass. They are useful for breaking out inside curves and small pieces.

To break out a score, hold the glass firmly near the score line with the pliers, flat jaw up. Use your right hand to hold the other half of the glass near the score line opposite the pliers jaws. Use a downward, bending motion to break the score.

To groze, hold the piers curved side up and use a rolling motion to gently scrape the glass edge against the serrated teeth. Use the tips in a chewing motion to remove small sections of glass or nibble out deep inside curves.

Q: How and when do you use breaking pliers?

Breaking pliers have a smooth, flat jaw and are useful for breaking long, thin pieces of glass and straight pieces. They allow you to reach into a piece of glass and hold it firmly at the score line without chipping the edge of the glass.

To use, firmly hold the glass close to one side of the score line with the pliers and close to the opposite side of the score line with your other hand. use a downward, rotating motion with your hands to separate the pieces of glass. If you don't get a nice clean break of the glass is chipping and shattering, you may be squeezing the pliers too hard.

Q: How and when do you use running pliers?

Running pliers help you long and curvy scores with ease. The curved jaw applies equal pressure to both sides of the score line causing the score to 'run'. There is an adjustment screw on some types for adjusting to the glass thickness and amount of force needed to run the score - More pressure runs a score more quickly, less pressure more slowly. Curves are easily broken out by running the score slowly from one end to about half way and then from the other end until the scores meet.

To use, place the jaws (with the center indicator line facing up) squarely onto the glass with the score line centered in the jaws. Turn the adjustment screw until it just touches the bottom handle, then back if off 1/2 a turn. Squeeze the handles gently until the score runs. You must have the jaws fully on the glass for the pliers to work properly.

Breaking Tips & Tricks:

Prevent tools from rusting by storing them away from any corrosive chemicals. Wash and dry your tools if they come in contact with flux or patina.
Holding and bending is the correct action when using breaking or breaker/grozier pliers. Squeezing too hard causes the glass to chip and shatter.
Instead of holding the glass in your hand when using breaking pliers, try holding the glass flat on the table with the score line just off the edge. Use your breaking pliers to grasp the piece hanging over the edge and bend the glass down to separate the score. This is most useful for straight cuts.
You have more control over how your glass breaks when you squeeze gently with your pliers. Apply pressure in small, increasing amounts until the score runs or breaks.
Sometimes helpful to turn the runners over and repeat the process on the score. This creates opposite pressure and helps the glass break away. (return to index)

Grinding & Sawing Glass

Glass Grinding & Sawing Safety

ALWAYS wear safety glasses or goggles when grinding glass.
A face shield is extra protection, but is not a substitute for safety glasses or goggles.
ALWAYS use the machine in a properly grounded outlet. Never remove or alter the grounding plug or try to override it.
Keep small children and pets out of your work area while grinding.

Q: Do I really need a glass grinder?

A grinder lets you easily create projects that you will be proud of right from the start.
Grinding lets you alter the shape of your glass. You will waste less glass because of inaccurate cuts. Your pieces will fit better and look more professional.
Copper foil adheres better to a ground edge because the adhesive has a rougher surface to grab to.
Specialty bits make jobs like drilling holes, mitering edges, and removing glass texture much easier.

Q: How do I choose the right grinder for me?

Consider the following to help you decide which features are the most important to you, now and in the future. Consult with your stained glass retailer before you buy for additional information and advice.

Size - Grinder are made in two basic sizes, "large" with a 12" x 11" work surface and "midsize" with a 10" x 9" work surface. consider your bench space and the type of projects you'll be making. large pieces of glass are easier to work with on a large grinder.

Power - The more torque (measured in oz.-in. your grinder has, the faster and more efficiently it grinds. More powerful grinders operate larger diameter grinding heads more effectively.

Accessories/Bits - Additional work surfaces, face shields and upgrade kits are a few of the many useful grinder accessories. There are many different grits, sizes and types of grinding heads. Buy a machine that doesn't limit future choices and options.

Q: Why would I want I diamond band saw?

No other cutting tool gives you the creative freedom of a band saw. You can cut any shape you can imagine. Save money and frustration by making the cut on the first try. pattern pieces can be placed closer together creating less waste. you don't have to worry about getting that piece out of a one-of-a-kind sheet. you can cut multiple layers at once, making quick work of projects with repeating pattern pieces. There's no need to grind: The pieces have smooth edges that are ready to foil .

A band saw won't replace your cutter and grinder for every situation, but it makes a great addition to any workshop! Many saws available also work with wood and metal cutting blades which greatly enhance their versatility and use.

Glass Grinding Tips & Tricks:

Position the grinder at a comfortable height to work at. Elevating one foot on a foot stool can alleviate back strain during extended grinding sessions.
Good over head lighting makes it easier to work and helps reduce eye strain.
Use a backdrop or splash guard around your grinder to help contain over spray.
Hang a towel below your grinder for drying pieces before putting them on your pattern.
Use a paint pen to mark pattern lines on glass. it's more likely to stay on while you grind.
Lay glass flat on the work surface while grinding to prevent angled edges. (Unless you want them!)
White build up around the grinding head means there is not enough water/coolant getting to the bit. Make sure the sponge contacts the bit and the water/coolant in the reservoir below. Keep your reservoir correctly filled and add more water/coolant if needed.
If you are pushing so hard that the glass cuts your finders when grinding, ease up and check the bit for wear. It may be time to reposition it or replace it.
Always secure the bit to the flat side of the motor shaft. To prevent your bit from seizing on the shaft, use a water insoluble lubricant like petroleum jelly, regularly when changing and replacing buts. Remove the bit when not using the grinder for extended periods.
Clean the water reservoir out after every use. Glass dust is harmful to you and your grinder motor. Use a rubber spatula to scrape out the majority of your grinding residue.
Remove hard water deposits from the grid and reservoir by cleaning with white vinegar or a lime removal product.
Rinse plastic face shields clean under cool water after every use. Be careful not to scratch it by using a cloth or rubbing to clean; they can grind the glass dust into the surface while cleaning and permanently scratch or mar the surface making it difficult to see through.
Spotting on the edge of mirror is caused by oil, flux, patinas, and other chemicals penetrating the silvered back. Avoid grinding mirror or use a bit grit specifically made for mirror and apply a mirror edge sealant before foiling or leading.

Glass Sawing Tips & Tricks:

Don't push too hard when cutting with a band saw - let the diamond on the blade do the work as you guide the glass. If you are pushing like you do with a grinder, you are pushing too hard. You won't saw any faster and all you are doing is creating undue stress and wear on the blade.
It is important to keep your band saw clean. When ground glass dries, it gets very hard. Make sure that your band saw is flushed clean after each use.
When uncoiling a new band saw blade, be very careful not to twist or kink it. This can create a potential weak spot in the blade.
If you are getting a white build up on your glass, you are not getting enough coolant to the blade. Check your reservoir level and flow rate. At the opposite end, too much coolant will cause excessive over spray and just create a bigger mess to clean up.
Use a paint pen to mark pattern lines on glass. It's more likely to stay on while you saw. You can also use a light coating of "chapstick" or similar material over a marker line to help it from washing away while you saw.
Use light pressure and/or a lower speed when sawing tight curves and when exiting your cut.
Turn the saw off between cuts to help prolong blade life. (return to index)

Diamond Bits & Blades

Q: How many bits do I need?

The best selection of bits for you depends on the type of work you do and your personal taste. Grinder heads (bits) come in a variety of sizes and shapes for different types of grinding or to create certain effects. Pick the ones that will most efficiently do the job at hand.

Super Fine Grits: Use for mirror, very soft and delicate glasses where maintaining the smoothness of the edge is critical. Also use when the edge will be left exposed.
Fine Grit: For soft and delicate glasses with very minimal chipping along the ground edge.
Standard Grit: For normal grinding of most glass types.
Speed Grits: For fast removal of material or grinding large surfaces where any chipping will be covered with foil or lead.
Super Speed Grit: An aggressive grit for extremely fast removal and where the edge won't be seen or will be retouched with a finer bit.
SuperBond®:" A special patented bonding process for extra long wear.
DoubleDiamond®: Two layers of diamond bonded to the core that last more than twice as long as conventional grinder heads.

Q: When would I use a Lamp Bit?

This is a reversible bit with two different angle sides to grind glass pieces that fit on a miter like those found on panel style lamps and multi-sided 3-dimensional projects. Mitered edges will meet better giving a thinner, more professional looking solder seam. Pick the angle that comes closest to the angle between the panels in your project. To figure the angle, take the number of sides and divide into 180. This will be the angle you need to grind on both the pieces that meet.

Q: When would I use a Ripple Bit?

This type of bit i used to thin the edge of thicker glasses or remove the texture from glasses to make them easier to fit into the channels of lead and metal cames or to make the pieces easier to foil. Ripple bits grind the texture away to make a thin shelf-like edge on the glass edge by passing the piece either through the groove or sometimes under the bottom groove in the bit. The farther you push into the groove, the wider the texture free ledge.

Q: How do I use a drilling head or bit?

Drilling bits and heads mount to the grinder shaft and can be used to drill holes in glass. Start by holding the glass at an angle to the top of the bit with a sponge held against the bit and the underside of the glass. As you grind, work the glass round the point of contact. It's important to keep the bit and glass wet. Frequently remove the bit from the hole to wet the hole and remove residue. Just before the bit comes through the glass, decrease grinding pressure to prevent chipping.

Q: How do I drill holes using diamond core drills?

It is best to drill under water. Use a cake pan or something similar to hold the water and your glass piece. Place a piece of corrugated cardboard between the glass and the pan to protect the glass and the bit end when you drill through.

If you are using a hand drill, start drilling at and angle to the glass. Once the hole is started, bring the drill to vertical and drill through the glass. Make sure you keep the bit wet. If a white build up forms, add more water. Use less pressure as you come through the back of the glass.

For larger diameter drills, those greater than 3/8" or so, we highly recommend using a drill press. You will have much better control of the bit and the entire process.

Q: Why would I want a diamond band saw?

No other cutting tool gives you the creative freedom of a band saw and there are a number of reasons to consider purchasing this tool:

You can cut any shape you can imagine.

Save money and frustration by making the cut on the first try.

Pattern pieces can be placed closer together creating less waste.

You don't have to worry about getting that piece out of a one-of-a-kind sheet.

Cut multiple layers at once for projects with repeating pattern pieces.

There's no need to grind, your pieces have smooth edges ready to foil.

A band saw won't replace your cutter and grinder for every situation, but it makes a great addition to any workshop! Many saws available also work with wood and metal cutting blades and expand their versatility and use to other hobbies.

Diamond Bit Tips and Tricks:

Store bits in their original packaging to protect the diamond and identify the grit.
Keep the set screws from worn bits for back up.
Always secure the bit to the flat side of the motor shaft.
When changing bits, lubricate the shaft with a petroleum based product to prevent seizing.
Remove bits if you're not using the machine for long periods of time.
Bits frozen onto the shaft can be removed by carefully using a plumbers faucet puller. You can find instructions for removing a stuck bit here.
To extend the life of your diamond bits, blades, core drills and discs, use a grinder coolant additive. A couple of capfuls added to the water in the reservoir reduces friction, speeds up the grinding action and adds up to 50% to the life of a grinder head.

Diamond Band Saw Tips and Tricks:

Don't push too hard when cutting with a band saw; let the diamond on the blade do the work as you guide the glass. You won't saw any faster and all you are doing is putting undue stress on the blade. If push like you do with a grinder, you are pushing too hard!
It is important to keep your band saw clean. When ground glass dries, it gets very hard. Make sure you clean your saw after each use.
Be very careful not to twist or kink a new blade when uncoiling it; this can create a potential weak spot in the blade.
A white build up on your glass while sawing means you are not getting enough coolant to the blade. Check your reservoir level and flow rate.
Too much coolant will cause excessive over spray and create an unnecessary mess. More coolant does not translate into faster sawing.
Use a paint pen to mark pattern lines on glass as it's more likely to stay on while you saw. You can also use a light coating of "chapstick" or similar material over the line to help it stay on the glass while you saw.
Use lighter pressure and/or a lower blade speed when sawing tight curves and exiting your cut.
Turn the saw off between cuts to help prolong blade life. (return to index)

Working With Copper Foil

Q: How do I choose between Copper Foil and Lead Came?

Choosing is really a matter of looks and technique preference. Either method is equally strong when properly reinforced. Copper foil is generally more appropriate for projects with many small pieces, intricate details, patterns that are more organic in nature, and larger 3-dimensional pieces like lamps. You can combine copper foil and lead construction in the same piece to get detail in some areas and uniform lines in others.
Lead came is generally used in more linear patterns with long, clean straight lines and more gentle curves - think Prairie Style, beveled glass windows, church windows. Tight curves and small pieces can be difficult to lead.

In both cases you can use different sizes (widths) to create different width solder lines and increase the depth and interest of your piece. As a rule, larger pieces have larger solder lines, smaller pieces have thinner lines. There are also decorative foils that can add interest and create unique looking solder lines.

Q: How do I choose the right foil for my project?

Copper foil sold for stained glass generally comes on a roll and has an adhesive side protected by a peel-a-way backing. When you foil your glass pieces, the backing is peeled away as you press the foil to the glass, centering it as you go. You want the foil to extend out over the edges of the glass equally. The foil is then folded over the edges, essentially wrapping the entire piece of glass. It is then pressed down or "burnished" to seal it against the glass. This process is repeated for every piece of glass in a copper foil project.

Foil tapes come different thicknesses, or mils:

1 mil is very thin and works well for intricate cuts and tight inside curves because it easily bends and "stretches".

1.5 mil is thicker and won't tear as easily and is often preferred by beginners for this reason. It also works well on unground edges, and around sharp edges.

1.25 mil is a middle weight foil suitable for most projects.

Foils come in a wide range of sizes, or widths: 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and even wider. Choose the width that will properly wrap the glass and give you the final solder line width you want. Beginners generally find 7/32" and 1/4" the easiest to work with. You can mix different size widths in a project.

Foil tapes also come with different colors on the adhesive side. The default color is copper because that is what the tape is made of but you will find black and silver also. If you are using glass that you can see through, choose a foil with the same color on the adhesive side as the patina you intend to use. This will help make foil disappear into the solder lines.

There are also a variety of specialty tapes that make decorative effects or specific projects easier:

Foil tapes with a scalloped edge add an additional detail and create interesting solder lines.

Double silver tapes have a silver color on both sides. They are useful in projects where not all pieces or edges will be soldered and the solder seams will be left their natural silver color.

Brass foil is useful for clear glasses where the solder seam will be plated or colored a brass or similar color.

Glass Foiling Tips & Tricks:

Warm, clean and dry glass foils best. Make sure to remove all grinding residue from your pieces before foiling.
Burnish your foil down securely making sure to remove folds and air bubbles. This will help prevent flux from seeping under the foil.
If you have to put a project away when it's partially foiled, tape a small piece of foil to it so you use the same size later.
Store opened copper foil in a zipper type bag to help prevent oxidation and keep the adhesive from going bad.
To avoid splits in the foil when foiling deep inside curves, start and end the foil at the deepest part of the curve, overlapping slightly. Use your finger to gently stretch and roll the foil over the edges.
You can use an old toothbrush to help burnish foil to textured glasses. On highly textured glasses like ripple and herringbone, consider running the glass through an edge removing bit, like a RippleBit™, to make foiling easier.
You can use an Exacto™ knife to trim unevenly foiled edges instead of re-foiling.
Warm, clean and dry glass foils best. Make sure to remove all grinding residue from your pieces before foiling.
See our How To Foiling + Tips & Tricks to learn even more! (return to index)

Working With Lead Came

Q: Why choose lead came?

Lead construction lends itself nicely to geometric, straight line or gently curving patterns. The nature of lead channel or came makes it easy to create uniform width lines in your project. Lead came is soldered at joints - the intersections of different lead pieces and then the piece is cemented or puttied to seal the glass and impart strength. You can combine different widths of came in the same project for additional depth and emphasis. It is not advisable to make large 3-dimensional projects from lead came.

Lead like foil, is available in different types and sizes:

Lead came comes in "H" and "U" types and their names reflect their overall shape. H cames are used both between pieces of glass to connect them together and around the perimeter. U came is used on the perimeter only.

The entire width of the came is refereed to as the "face". The center portion of the came is referred to as the "heart". This is the distance between the two faces and determines the thickness of the glass that can be inserted.

There are also different face profiles available in each type of came. "Flat" is just that, the face is completely flat. "Round" has an upward curving face, similar to that of a soldered seam. There are also many specialty profiles available and used in specific styles or applications like Prairie style or restoration work.

Q: What tools will I need?

In addition to the tools you use for cutting, shaping, and soldering, you will need these tools for lead came construction:

Pair of good lead nippers or "dykes": These have a special shape and extremely sharp edge for making clean precise cuts in the lead came.

Glazing hammer: This special hammer has two different heads. Use the soft rubber head for seating the glass in the channel. Use the hard plastic head for driving the nails that hold your project as you assemble it.

Horseshoe nails: These are used to hold the pieces of glass and came in place as you assemble. When you look at them in profile you will notice they have a straight, flat side and a curved side. The flat side is put to the glass edge.

Fid: This is used for opening the channel of lead and metal cames, flattening lead came to the glass, and cleaning excess glazing.

Brass wire brush: Used for cleaning and removing oxidation from your came and joints prior to soldering.

Cementing / Putty: This is used to seal the glass in the channel.

Whiting: Used in the cementing/ puttying process to help set and clean the piece.

Natural Bristle Scrub Brush: Used in the cementing / puttying process. Needs to be natural as many of the products will react with plastic bristle brushes.

Q: Why do I need to cement / putty my lead panels?

Cementing is necessary to secure the glass in the channels and prevent them from rattling. It finished the project making it solid and weather proof. There are many different products available for cementing. Check with your stained glass retailer to choose the one that's right for your particular application and installation. Cementing is basically a 3 step process:

Cementing can be messy, so cover your work surface with newspaper. Mix the cement thoroughly according to the manufacturers instructions. Use a natural bristle brush to force the cement under the face of the cames by working perpendicular to them. Repeat the process on the other side. Make sure to work cement under all the cames and edging.
Sprinkle whiting powder over the entire panel. Whiting is used to absorb and remove excess cement and start the curing process. Using a natural bristle brush, rub whiting over the entire panel working parallel to the came. This will remove excess cement and clean the panel. Repeat on the other side. Use a fid to clean cement from the corners.

Allow the panel to dry flat for 24-48 hours. Check for cement that may have seeped out and remove with your fid. Allow the panel to finish drying according the manufacturers instructions before applying patina and installing.

Lead Came Tips & Tricks:

Wear safety glasses and a dust mask when using cementing / putty and whiting.
For small projects, try putting your project in a plastic trash back when cementing and cleaning.
Used cement brushes can be stored in a zipper bag in the freezer. When needed simply thaw and use.
To prevent damage, don't cut anything but lead with your lead dykes.
A lead knife is another tool used to cut lead came. You may find it better when cutting wider faced cames and creating very angled or tapered cuts.
Large brushes can be cut in half. Use one half for cementing process and the other with the whiting for cleaning. The smaller size is easier to use on small in midsize projects.
See our guide How To: Make a Leaded Panel for more detailed instructions on the entire process. (return to index)

Soldering Stained Glass

Soldering Safety

ALWAYS solder in a properly ventilated area! Wear safety glasses or goggles while soldering.
NEVER eat, drink or smoke while soldering stained glass. Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water before doing anything else!
NEVER remove or alter the grounding plug or try to override it.
NEVER leave your soldering iron plugged in when not in use or unattended!
Keep small children and pets out of your work area.

Q: How do I choose the right soldering iron?

The best irons for stained glass are between 80 and 150 watts. A wattage lower than 80 won't melt solder fast enough for stained glass projects. The iron should have a chisel style tip to distribute solder evenly and consistently. There are different size tips for most irons so you can match tip size to the width of the copper foil seams or lead came or for the specific decorative effects you want. The iron you choose should be comfortable to hold. Consider the weight, balance and handle style. See if you can "test drive" different irons at your local retailer. Consider no only the type of work you're now doing but what you might be doing in the future. Buying a model or two up now may say you from frustration in the future.

Consider the type of temperature control you want. Some irons have a single operating temperature controlled by the temperature of the tip you put in. They work like the thermostat in your house. When the tip temperature drops below the threshold, they kick on and then off when the tip temperature is regained. Other irons use a temperature control device called a rheostat. This works similar to a dimmer switch. You control the amount of electricity supplied to the iron and therefore the tip temperature by turning the dial up or down. Some irons have a built in rheostat while others plug into a separate unit. Rheostats allow you to match the soldering temperature to solder type, construction method, your soldering style and allow you to create decorative effects in the solder itself.

Q: What is a ceramic core iron and why would I want one?

Ceramic core irons have a more electrically efficient way to generate and maintain heat than conventional wound wire heaters. The heater core extends into the tip for faster heat transfer. This keeps the tip hot longer so you can solder faster. Ceramic core irons pull in a burst of power and distribute it as needed to maintain the tip temperature without a heat recovery lag time - where you are working faster than the iron can melt the solder.

Ceramic irons heat up to soldering temperature much faster, often in 30 to 60 seconds. Tips can't freeze into the barrel on a ceramic core iron and you can use most ceramic irons with a rheostat for increased flexibility in your soldering.

Q: Which solder should I use?

Your choice of solder depends on how fast you work, what you are soldering, and the look you want to achieve. Stained glass uses a soft solder mix of tin and lead. The numbers on the roll identify the percent of tin and lead, the first number being the amount of tin - that is 60/40 solder is 60% tin, 40% lead. Sometimes you'll find other metals such as silver listed. Stained glass solders are a solid core wire solder and generally come on 1 pound rolls.

Different solders melt and re-solidify (pasty stage) at different temperatures. 50/50 melts at the highest temperature followed by 60/40 and 63/37. 60/40 is more liquid than 50/50 and solidifies slightly faster than 50/50. 63/37 has no pasty stage, going directly from solid to liquid to solid (the eutectic point) making it useful for decorative soldering. Many people find 60/40 gives a higher, shinier bead while 50/50 works better on three-dimensional projects.

Q: What is flux and why do I need it?

Flux is a chemical compound that is used to promote the bonding of metals by removing the oxide residue simultaneously with the soldering process. Most metals left exposed to the air around us react with the air to form residue on the surface of the metal. The process is oxidization and the residues are oxides. Each mix of metals being joined has a specific flux that best promotes this bonding process. In stained glass, the metals being joined are primarily copper to tin/lead solder and lead, brass or zinc to tin/lead solder.

Fluxes come in liquid, gel and paste. They can be water soluble (easier to clean up) or not. They can be organic, some form of fatty acid, or inorganic such as zinc chloride based. The best fluxes do three things:

Remove all the residue (oxidation) that has formed on the surface of the metals you are going to solder.

Prevents oxides from forming while you are soldering.

Any post-soldering residue they leave is non-corrosive and easily cleaned off.

It is important to keep your flux clean and free of impurities so avoid dipping in and out of the original container. Pour out the amount you will need for your current project into a separate, smaller container and never pour leftover flux back into the original container. Don’t leave the flux bottle sitting around with the cover off.

Soldering Tips & Tricks:

After each soldering session, unscrew the iron tip with pliers. It's not necessary to remove it, but loosening the nut or screw will help keep it from fusing to the barrel of the iron.
If you use an iron control (rheostat), mark the spot that seems ideal with a permanent marker for quick reference.
If your solder spits and sputters while soldering, you may be using too much flux.
To keep from applying too much flux, trim the bristles of you flux brush to about 1/4".
For neat solder seams, avoid stopping and starting the solder line at an intersection or joint.
Pre-fill large gaps with solder before trying to run the final solder bead.
Never leave your piece partially fluxed and soldered. You will likely end up with oxidation that is difficult or impossible to remove and be unable to complete your project. Schedule your soldering so you can complete it in one session. (return to index)

Cleaning and Finishing

Q: How do I use patinas?

Solder and lead change color naturally over time, but you can change their color instantly by using patinas. Patinas are chemical solutions that react with the metals in your solder or lead came to turn it a variety of colors. Read the label to make sure the patina you choose is appropriate for the construction method; just because a patina works on solder doesn't always mean it will work on lead came.

Patinas are easy to use. Make sure your project is thoroughly clean and free of soldering, flux and cutting residues. There are many commercially available cleaners made specifically for stained glass. Follow the manufacturers instructions and use a brush or soft rag to apply the patina until you reach the desired color. Wash the piece again to remove any patina from the glass.

The final step to patination is to seal in the color you created and prevent oxidation. Finishing compounds (or wax) are the final step to completing your stained glass project. They are designed to polish the glass and solder while helping to prevent oxidation.

Finishing Tips & Tricks:

When using Antique Brass patina, first scrub your solder seams with fine steel wool. Apply the patina sparingly with a clean brush, using only a few strokes until you reach the desired color. Quickly move on to the next area.
Never mix patinas and always use proper ventilation and skin protection.
To patina brass black, add a dash of table salt to a little black patina in a glass or plastic container. Mix well, apply to brass and let it dry. Clean and finish as usual.
For best results, plan your time so that you can clean and patina as soon as you're done soldering. The less time the solder or lead is exposed to the air, the less chance it has to oxidize.
When patina won't take evenly, remove it using fine (0000 gauge) steel wool, clean, rinse and reapply the patina.
Use a clean coffee filter to dust and remove finger prints from your waxed projects. It won't leave lint like paper towels or cloths can. (return to index)